Corrections to the second edition

This edition corrects these mistakes in the second edition. The page numbers are the second edition’s. CHANGELOG.md in the source repository (see the colophon) lists every change, the redrawn figures among them.

Corrections to the second edition
Page	Correction
2	Chapter 1 opening. “How do you hang on your skeleton instead of your muscles?” gave the coaches’ figure of speech as the mechanism → “How do you hang without wasting strength?”
4	Straight arms. “Your biceps and forearms then work all the time” went beyond the closest study, which found no extra work in the forearm → “your biceps and shoulder muscles work all the time”.
4	Straight arms. “The pull now runs along the bones” gave the bones as the reason for the saving → a physiotherapist points out that you always hang on your skeleton. The saving comes from using fewer muscles and using them less hard.
4	Straight arms. “That is why coaches teach Straight arms from the start” read a coach-training syllabus that gives no timing → “So learn straight arms early (this book’s suggestion)”. The UK’s coach training lists them as a way to find a rest.
4	Straight arms. Straightening your arms “reduces that load”, as if measured → coaches recommend it to ease the pump, but we found no study measuring this.
4	Straight arms. “The skill is to straighten them again” applied on any wall, though Straight arms (p. 70) warns against sinking low on a vertical wall → “On steep ground the skill is to straighten them again”.
4	Straight arms, figure and caption. The labels “arm hangs on bones” and “straight arms: skeleton holds you” and the caption “The body hangs on the arm bones” gave as the mechanism what the text corrects, since you always hang on your skeleton → “elbow muscles rest”, “straight arms: muscles work less” and “the elbow muscles rest while the legs push”.
7	Static and dynamic. Dynamic movement “saves strength” was stated as fact → it “can save energy compared with a hard lock-off, according to one gym owner’s article”.
7	Static and dynamic. “From about V4 indoors you need both” contradicted the Deadpoint’s V3 badge → “From about V3”.
7	Three questions for every move. “closer to the wall” was wrong on a slab and contradicted Hips and the wall, which keeps your hips away from a slab → “closer to a steep wall”.
8	Why reading pays off. “Reading improves how you climb” left out that the study used roped routes. “Fewer stops means less time hanging on your arms” was the book’s own inference → “Reading changes how you climb”. The 29 male climbers on roped indoor routes made fewer and shorter stops, and part of that held up once the authors allowed for ability. The inference is gone.
8	Why reading pays off. “the 2018 World Cup qualification and semi-final rounds” → “the qualification and semi-final rounds of one 2018 World Cup”.
12	Hold table, jug row. “Hips under it, arm straight” held on any wall → “arm straight on steep ground”.
14	What the setter had in mind. “Even easy problems get matches, crosses, heel hooks and jumps” went beyond its sources → “Easier problems get matches and crosses too, and sometimes an easy heel hook or dyno”.
16	Flash or project?, Flashing. The advice to put everything into the first try followed from World Cup finalists’ rates as if it held for every climber → the text gives the rates, about 21% on the first attempt and 6% on the fifth. It says the authors ran no statistical test and warn that skill skews the rates. The advice is labelled (judgement).
16	Flashing. “On slab, success stayed steadier over the first three attempts” → on slab and slab-like problems the rate rose, from about 15% on the first attempt to 22% on the second and third.
16	Flashing. “At the 2018 World Cups” covered one World Cup and one World Championship final. “Most failed attempts end early” didn’t follow from the attempt times, since a failed attempt stops at the fall → the label, the times and the inference are gone.
16	Key point. “On steep problems your first try is your best chance” turned a finding about finalists into a rule → it is gone from the key point. The four-to-six rule is labelled (judgement).
17	Rest between attempts, table. “about 30 seconds (2018 World Cups)” → “(a World Cup and the World Championship final, 2018)”.
17	Rest between attempts. An hour at your limit held “about six full attempts”, which fits only the shortest rest in the table → “about four to six”.
17	Rest between attempts. “The competition figures describe athletes with four or five minutes per problem” → only the 2018 figure does. Neither figure is advice.
22	Feet first. “About three foot moves for every hand move is a good guide” turned one how-to article’s practice drill into a general ratio → it is a drill for noticing lazy feet, to try on an easy climb first. It’s not a target for your hard problems.
25	Edging, step 5. “On a hold that slopes down, lift the heel” widened its source’s advice on edges to every foothold, though Smearing (p. 33) says to drop the heel → “On an edge that slopes down, lift the heel. On an edge that slopes up, drop it”.
27	Precise footwork, grade note. “It becomes decisive at V2–V3” was cited to a forum thread that puts the break at V3 → V2–V3 is now labelled (judgement). The note gives the forum’s V3 on its own.
29	Drills for quiet feet. “Do these slowly in the warm-up” took in Target practice, which is done on problems a grade below your limit → “Do the first three slowly in the warm-up”.
30	Front-pointing, grade note. “Gripped magazine suggests learning it before other foot techniques” applied a remark about standing on the toe in general to this technique. “Your first V0–V1s” didn’t match the V1 badge → the Gripped sentence is gone. The note says “Needed on your first V1s with pockets or small holds that face straight out (judgement)”.
32	High step, figure (b). The high shoe pointed straight into the wall under a knee that points out, a twisted knee → the shoe turns out about 45° with the knee, as in photographs of high steps. Rockover (p. 38) and Hand–foot match (p. 40) had the same fault and are drawn the same way.
42	Heel hook rock-up (In motion), frame 3 and caption. The hips move towards the heel but never reach it, so “hips over the heel” and “until they sit over the foot” said more than the drawing shows → “hips towards the heel” and “up and across towards the foot”.
51	Knee bar, figure. The free leg hung in the air, though step 6 presses it against the wall → its foot presses on the wall below the bar foot, making the tripod of step 6.
55	Weight shift, grade note, and the grade notes of Matching hands (p. 60), Stemming (p. 61), Layback (p. 65), Side flag (p. 67) and Drop knee (p. 84). Calling a skill “basic” or one of “the first” on the UK coaching pathway read a syllabus for training coaches as an order for climbers → each note says only that the UK’s coach training lists the skill.
56	Barn door, step 8. The slab drill said to “try each fix”, but its source covers only fix 1, standing on the other foot → “then try fix 1”.
61	Stemming, symptoms. “your feet slip because they push down, not outward” clashed with Corners (p. 169), which says to press outward and down → “push straight down, not outward”.
69	Straight arms, grade note. “On V3–V4 overhangs it decides whether you run out of strength” had no source. “Teaches it in its second coaching workshop” read a coach syllabus as an order for climbers → it “can decide” this (judgement). The UK’s coach training lists it as a way to find a rest.
69	Straight arms, summary. “Your bones and shoulders carry the load, so your arm muscles rest” gave a coaching figure of speech as the mechanism → “so your arm muscles work less”.
69	Straight arms, step 3. “lower your hips until your arms are straight” contradicted the slight bend in step 1 → “until your arms are nearly straight”.
69	Straight arms, Look for. “any pause” set no limit on wall angle, though the entry warns against sinking low on a vertical wall (p. 70) → “any pause on steep ground”.
69	Straight arms, symptoms. Pumped forearms before the crux were given as a sign of bent arms, with no sign that this is coaching opinion → “Coaches put this down to bent arms”.
69	Straight arms, common mistakes. “It strains the shoulder” was stated as fact → the coach Neil Gresham says this strains the shoulders. A physiotherapist calls it a risky habit. We found no study that measures it.
84	Drop knee, summary. “the thigh lies against the wall” described only the deep drop knee, which the grade note calls rare below elite level → “the thigh turns towards the wall”.
84	Drop knee, step 4. “Turn that knee in towards the wall” cued the knee alone, though p. 215 says to turn your whole hip rather than twist the knee → “Turn your hip and that knee in towards the wall”.
89	Lock-off, symptoms. “A Twist lock or a Deadpoint would cost less” had no source → “Try a twist lock or a deadpoint instead”.
92	Compression, figure. The upper volume was about 1.2 m wide, so its side faces turned out from the wall and gave the palms little to squeeze. It is now 60 cm wide. Its faces point away from each other, as the text says.
93	Compression, tall note. “arm span barely predicts grade” was stated as fact → Lattice’s client data show little link between ape index and grade, though one 2007 study disagrees.
96	Hand positions plate (Figure 10), undercling. The hold was drawn upside down. Its underside sloped down to the wall, so the fingers would slide off. It now has a lip for the fingers to hook behind, as in the Undercling entry (p. 106).
97	Jug, step 4. “Hang on a straight arm, so your bones take the load instead of your biceps” held on any wall and gave the bones as the reason → “On a steep wall, hang on a straight arm, so your biceps can rest”.
97	Jug, figure and caption. “bent arms: forearms pump” and “biceps and forearms hold you up” went beyond the evidence, which supports only the upper arm and shoulder → “bent arms: biceps work” and “your biceps and shoulder muscles work to hold you there”.
98	Jug, symptoms. Squeezing too hard or hanging on bent arms was given as the cause of pump → “German school lessons blame” them.
103	Open hand, summary. “It puts the least load on your finger pulleys” was cited partly to a source that compares nothing with an open grip → “far less load on your finger pulleys than a crimp”, with the citation corrected.
103	Open hand, caption. “the joints are barely bent” disagreed with the figure, which marks the middle joint at about 40° as step 2 does → “the middle joint bends about 40°”.
106	Undercling, step 4. “Keep the arm straight, so your skeleton takes the load” gave the skeleton as the reason for the saving → “so your biceps can rest”.
111	Pinch, tall note. “They don’t help on narrow ones” was this book’s inference, stated as fact → “less so on narrow ones (judgement)”.
114	Re-gripping a sloper (In motion), caption. “the thumb finds a spot underneath” said more than photographs of sloper grips show → “below the fingers”.
115	Sloper, common mistakes. “instead of hanging from the shoulder” reversed its source → “instead of using your shoulders, back and core”, now cited.
121	Pocket, Sources. The list left out [96], which the summary cites → it is now listed.
124	Full crimp, reading box. “a fast catch on a small edge” was given as a time to use it, against p. 129, which says to move statically or with a very small deadpoint to a thin edge → removed.
124	Full crimp, summary and caption. “the most load on the finger pulleys” and “The load on the A2 pulley peaks” ranked the grip above the others, though no source gives a pulley load for the half crimp → “very high loads on the finger pulleys” and “The load on the A2 pulley is particularly high”.
125	Is the full crimp dangerous?. Pulley forces “are highest once the middle joint bends past about 80°” → they “become particularly high” past about 80°. Schweizer advises against bending it past 80–90°.
125	Is the full crimp dangerous?. “These are load models” let the crimp figures read as a comparison with the half crimp → the model compares a crimp with an open grip. We found no pulley load figure for the half crimp, so the model can’t say whether a half crimp saves anything.
125	Is the full crimp dangerous?. “What to do” read as if it followed from the load figures → it is labelled as this book’s suggestion.
128	Chapter 6 opening. “Read the falling section in Chapter 9 before you try the V5 entries” came too late. Chapter 9 asks you to read it before any dyno or run-and-jump, and both were V4 → “Whatever your height, read the falling section in Chapter 9 before your first dyno or running jump.”
129	Static or dynamic?. “In return it costs less energy, and you spend less time hanging” was given as fact, and its source doesn’t mention hanging → one coach’s training-plan page calls momentum a big energy-saver, and moving faster can mean less time on the wall.
129	Static or dynamic?. “Otherwise, try the move dynamically first” set no limit, against Chapter 9’s “Jump only when the problem needs it” → try it with the smallest deadpoint that reaches. Apart from a few practice goes low on big holds, keep big jumps for the moves that need them (judgement). Don’t snatch at small holds, because a very fast grab can rupture a pulley.
129	Where “deadpoint” comes from, and p. 131, Deadpoint, summary. “At that instant you weigh almost nothing”, and on p. 129 “A hold you grab then takes the least load” → near the top you are coasting and feel light. Because you are barely moving, the hold starts to take your weight gently as you sink (this book’s reading). The summary says you grab the hold “when you are barely moving and feel light”.
131	Deadpoint, Look for. “The steeper the wall, the more a deadpoint saves” was given as fact → “One gym owner finds deadpoints more efficient the steeper the wall”.
132	Deadpoint, common mistakes. “Locking off out of habit where a deadpoint costs less” → “where a deadpoint might save energy”.
132	Deadpoint, tall note. “it costs less, and by V5 the lock-off often stops working”, though its source names no grade → “it may save energy, and on harder problems the lock-off often stops working (judgement)”.
133	Hip pump (a). The label says “arms straight”, but the elbows were bent to about 140–150°. The hips now dip a little lower, so the arms hang straight.
141–142	The dyno and its filmstrip. The sink is labelled “arms straight”, but the elbows were bent to about 140°. In the drive they bent to about 120°, though step 5 keeps them nearly straight. The sink’s arms are now straight. The drive’s are nearly straight.
143	Dyno, tall note. “Use all of your sink” contradicted “Use only the speed you need” on p. 130 → “Sink as far as the gap needs, because extra speed only gives you a bigger swing to hold”.
144	Hip pop, step 1. “or a drop knee” set no limit on depth, though the knee box on p. 215 says the knee takes a sudden load when a hand lets go → set a backstep or a partial drop knee. Don’t snap off a deep drop knee, because the knee can take a sudden load as your hand lets go (judgement). Hip pop is now a part of Deadpoint.
149	One-handed dyno, tall note. “The throw costs less” → “The throw probably costs less energy (judgement)”.
152	Campus move, summary. “Each move is a short, footless dyno” added “short”, which its source doesn’t say; it describes campus moves made as big as possible → “Each move is a footless dyno”.
158	Jumping to a foothold, Sources. Left out [82], the source step 3 cites → the list now includes it.
171	Traverses, step 3. “Don’t swap feet on one foothold” was a flat ban, against the Foot swap entry and the V2 guide → “flag the trailing leg instead of swapping feet on one foothold”. A new line saves a foot swap “for a stretch with only one good foothold”.
171	Traverses, step 5. “Keep your arms straight” applied to any wall, against Straight arms (p. 70), which says to stand tall on a vertical wall → “On steep sections, keep your arms straight”.
171	Traverses, figure. The left hip turned in, so in depth the flagging left leg passed between the standing leg and the wall, an inside flag, though the caption says it flags behind → the standing leg’s hip turns in, as in photographs of back flags.
173	Slab technique, step 8. “Lean in so the bone takes the weight” gave the bones as the mechanism. Leaning in is also the fault step 2 warns against → “Shift your weight onto that heel so the calf can relax”.
174	Slab technique, Look for. “a vertical wall with big volumes... Climb it as a slab” was cited to the World Cup study, which doesn’t advise it. Its slab-like walls are slightly overhanging, and the entry’s Sources left the study out → “a near-vertical wall with big volumes where you’ll mostly push”, with the citation on that clause. The study is now in Sources.
176	Top-outs (a). The knee bent downward, below the line from hip to heel, so the leg looked bent the wrong way, and the shoe lifted off the edge → the leg reaches nearly straight to the heel, its knee slightly bent and pointing up, with the pointed foot’s heel on top of the lip, as in photographs of heel-hook top-outs.
178	Volumes (a). The elbows went through the wall. The climber now stands further out with the hands a little lower.
179	Volumes, tall note. “a higher foot” told a folded-up climber to fold further, against Chapter 9 and the troubleshooting table → “a lower foot (judgement)”.
182	Overhangs (a). The climber lay flat along the wall and hid its line. The body now hangs off the wall between the hand and the low foot.
186	Sit starts. Panel (a)’s label “square on (frog)” sat under a cross and so marked the frog as the mistake, which step 3 recommends → “square on, bottom out”. In (b) the feet were on either side of the hips as if square on. The climber now sits side-on with both feet ahead of the hips, as step 2 says.
188	Dynamic slab, summary. Cited the World Cup study for what modern gym slab is like, though the study says nothing about gyms → the citation is gone. It stays for the 18% figure in the grade note.
191	Box “How long progress takes”. The title and “Age stretches every step” read the years climbers report at a grade as the time the grade took → the box is “How long climbers have been climbing”, and it says “Older climbers at a grade report more years of climbing”.
191	Same box. “Lattice suspects” gave a hunch as Lattice’s finding → Lattice’s author suspects it “and calls that a hunch without data”.
191	Same box. “you are in the middle of the pack, not behind it” had no data behind it → “These figures give you no reason to think that’s slow.” Lattice reports how long climbers at a grade have been climbing, and the forum’s posters are self-selected.
192	VB–V0, box and “Techniques that start to matter”, and p. 193, “Why people stall here”. “Hang on straight arms between moves” applied to any wall, against Straight arms (p. 70), which says to stand tall on a vertical wall → hang on straight arms when you pause on an overhang, and stand tall on a vertical wall. The fix for bent arms is now marked as coaching advice.
192	VB–V0, Focus. “Lattice advises 6–12 months of climbing before any finger training” → one Lattice post advises this before fingerboard training, and coaches differ on gentle hangs.
193	VB–V0, “Why people stall here”. “Most people get through this band in their first few sessions” was given as fact → “One blog says” so.
195	V1, “Square-on climbing”. Treated square on as the fault on any wall → “square on suits most vertical walls”, so practise turning a hip in on easy problems that lean towards you.
196	V2, box item 5, and p. 197, “Why people stall here”. “Let straight arms hold you on the steep, not your biceps” and “Your skeleton then holds you, not your biceps” gave a coaching figure of speech as the mechanism → hang on straight arms on the steep “so your biceps can rest”.
197	V2, Focus. “put the opposite foot flat against the wall as a flag” contradicted Side flag (p. 67), which presses the inside edge or the ball of the foot → “press the opposite foot into the wall”.
198	V3, “Techniques that start to matter”. The deadpoint catches the hold “when you weigh nothing” → “when you have stopped rising and feel lighter”.
199	V3, Physical side. Lattice’s max hang was “from a small edge”, which its source doesn’t say. “Many V3 climbers can’t add that and still climb well” had no support → the max hang is “the most extra weight you can hang for a few seconds”. The 19 kg figure mixes men and women over four grades, so many V3 climbers climb well on less (judgement).
202	Box “Five things that get you from V4 to V5”. Item 1, “Assume technique, not strength, stops you”, carried no label → it is labelled judgement, from the coaches’ advice in “Technique or strength?”.
202	Same box. “don’t lock off” was a flat ban, though p. 201 says only that newer climbers lock off too much → “lock off less”.
202	Same box. “Drill drop knees” didn’t separate partial from deep ones, though the knee box on p. 215 warns about deep ones → “Drill partial drop knees”.
203	“Technique or strength?”. “The finger-strength gap between V4 and V5 is small” rested on Lattice’s bands V1–V4 and V5–V7 → those bands are too wide to show that step, and the averages mix men and women.
203	Same section. “again an estimate” didn’t say how the forum’s one-arm figures were made → a forum reconstruction for men fills in V5 between figures from a Lattice video, then moves the result onto a one-arm scale. So it’s an estimate and not a measurement. The same reconstruction’s figures under “Physical side” on pp. 201, 206, 208, 209 and 210 are gone.
203	Same section. “Lattice’s coaches advise” climbers with under five years of experience to apply their strength “rather than only getting stronger”, which was firmer than the source → they say they are “likely to advise” those climbers to focus on technique or on applying the strength they have.
203	Same section. “The extra strength for V5 mostly comes from trying V5s” had no support → these figures can’t say where it comes from. Trying V5s is this book’s first suggestion (judgement), but Lattice’s author says of the men’s figures that technique alone can’t carry you up the whole grade scale.
204	A plan for the next months, step 5. “Spend most of each session on the steepest wall” overstated its source and left no room for the plan’s other styles → in hard sessions, spend about two-thirds of the time on steeper walls and give the rest to other styles. One session a week stays easy, for drills (this book’s suggestion).
204	Reading V5 problems. Research on routes “links this kind of preview to better climbing” → a Lattice summary ties previews of two to four holds to difficult routes, which doesn’t show that they help.
205	V5, box and “Techniques that start to matter”. “moves that leave the wall” and “Some moves leave the wall completely” misdescribed the double dyno, campus move and jumping to a foothold → “two-handed or footless” moves in the box, and moves that “take your feet or both hands off the wall” in the prose.
208	V6, Physical side. “Finger strength becomes a common limiter” was given as fact → “a more common limiter (judgement)”.
210	V8 and above, “Why people stall here”. “Time and age hold people here” read reported years as time to grade. “Structured training helps” rested on one client’s story → the data doesn’t show what holds people here. Climbers at this level report about ten years of climbing on average, more if they are older. Lattice, which sells training plans, reports a 51-year-old client sending V8 on one.
213	Climbing tall. “It doesn’t decide your grade” → “Its effect on your grade is less clear”.
213	Climbing tall. The study of “44 rope climbers” was cited from a blog, and its “training factor (strength, endurance, power and experience)” was said to explain 58.9% of “climbing ability” → the book now cites the paper. It scored 44 climbers on two indoor routes of 11 and 30 m. A factor the authors labelled training explained 58.9% of the differences in their scores and may partly measure experience.
213	Same section. “trainable qualities explained 46%” → “what the authors call trainable variables explained 46%”.
213	Same section. Elite Polish boulderers differed from non-climbers “most in arm span and lean body mass” → “in arm span and lean body mass, among other measures”.
214	Climbing tall, “Fold sideways, not forwards”. Offered a drop knee of any depth, the thigh lying along the wall, though the knee box on the next page warns about deep ones → “a backstep or a partial drop knee”.
215	Your knees on high steps and drop knees. The injury percentages carried no caveat → they are injuries seen in two specialist clinics, with the cause as the climbers described it. So they show what hurts people, not how risky each move is.
215	Same box. “Come out of the position before you stand up on it” can’t be done on a high step, where standing up is the move → “Turn a drop knee back up before you stand up on it. On a high step, get your hips over the foot before you stand.”
215	Mobility. Flexibility “explained only 1.8% of ability” and “doesn’t win grades” → 1.8% of the differences in score in the study of 44 climbers, which “gives no sign that it adds grades”.
216	Footwork first, step 1. “with the tip of your shoe” belongs to Front-pointing, not Precise footwork → “with the front of your shoe”.
216	Footwork first, step 3. “Jump only when the problem needs it” clashed with Chapter 6, and “climbers with a dynamic style more often showed signs of an unstable shoulder” overstated the study → small deadpoints are fine, but keep big jumps for the moves that need them and don’t snatch at small holds (this book’s suggestion). Six of 35 climbers reported a shoulder that felt it might slip out. The study didn’t separate small deadpoints from big jumps, and one snapshot can’t show that the style caused it.
216	Does weight cost you grades?. “At your level, hardly” and “Weight loss is the slowest and riskiest way to gain a grade” went beyond the studies → nobody has tested this for climbers like you. The studies compare different climbers, and the reviews differ. The book’s view is labelled as its own, without the superlatives.
216	Same section. “Elite boulderers are light” → one small study compared ten elite Polish boulderers with untrained students and found them light, meaning low in body fat.
216	Same section. “some climbers diet to be stronger for their weight” was cited to a survey that didn’t ask why → 45% of the elite women surveyed say they try to change their competition weight. The belief in a better strength-to-weight ratio now comes from a paper on competition climbers.
216	Same section. “Weight may matter more for injury”, and the survey of “389 Czech climbers” found that “age and weight played some part in recent injuries” → the evidence on injury is called mixed. The survey, of 389 Czech and Slovak climbers, found no effect of weight on how many injuries they had or how bad they were. The knee study that “guesses” weight plays a part in meniscus tears now “wonders, without testing it, whether age and weight help explain why some climbers needed surgery”.
218	Warming up. Four in five injured climbers already had a warm-up routine, with no comparison → with no uninjured climbers to compare, that can’t show whether warming up helps (this book’s reading).
219	When finger training makes sense. Gentle hangs “gained about as much strength as near-maximal hangs” and “climbing alone gave no gain” → a retrospective study of app logs, from climbers with at least 30 gentle workouts, where a co-author created the protocol. Gains of 2.5% and 3.2% didn’t differ significantly. Climbers below the study’s cut-offs showed no change, though nobody tracked their climbing. The users were intermediate to elite. The run-in head now says “some coaches” start gentle loading earlier.
219	What fits you. Gave two or three sessions a week with no note that the app study’s gentle group logged at least three. “This conditions your tendons” and “technique is still your main limit” were given as fact → the dose is “our own caution”. “The aim is to condition your tendons, though the app study measured only strength”, and Lattice’s beginner guide still puts skill first.
220	Principles that work. An external focus “usually works better” → a 2013 review found it better, but a 2024 re-analysis that allowed for unpublished studies found the average advantage small to nil. So it is something to try, and the heading is now “Principles to try”.
221	Video, flashing and repeating. Reading a problem first “means fewer and shorter stops” → “can mean”.
221	Drills, Leg traverse. “keep your arms straight”, which its source doesn’t say and which is a fault on a vertical wall → use your arms as little as you can. Keep them straight on a steep wall and stand tall on a vertical one.
222	Falling. “every torn ACL came from an uncontrolled fall” → the climbers with a torn ACL “all described an uncontrolled fall”.
228	On the mat, question 1. “closer to the wall” was wrong on a slab → “closer to a steep wall”.
232	Troubleshooting, pump row. Bent arms and hips away from the wall were given as the likely cause → “Coaches blame bent arms and hips away from the wall”.
232	Troubleshooting, “You take many attempts and make no progress”. “Rest 5–15 minutes” ran two rows of Chapter 2’s table together → “10–15 minutes”, as p. 17 gives for a full attempt at your limit.
232	Same row. The four-to-six rule was cited to the World Cup study, which doesn’t give it → the rule is labelled (judgement), and the row cites only the rest sources.
234	Glossary, deadpoint. “momentarily weightless” and “takes the least strength” → “when you have stopped rising and feel light”. Grabbing then “gives you a moment to latch before your weight pulls on your grip”.
234	Glossary, external focus. “It usually helps learning” → “Studies disagree on how much it helps, so treat it as something to try.”
235	Glossary, open hand. “the safest grip for the fingers”, an injury claim no source supports → “far less load on your finger pulleys than a crimp”.