Index

A

Abrahamsson, Emil Starting as an adult
ACL Falling and landing safely, Glossary of climbing jargon
Age
- knee injuries Drop knee
- recovery Starting as an adult
- tendons Starting as an adult
- years climbing Grade by grade
all points off (see Dyno) Dyno
Ankles Toe hook
Ape index Climbing tall, Glossary of climbing jargon
- and grade Compression
arete (see Arêtes) Arêtes
Arêtes Arêtes, Glossary of climbing jargon
- heel hooks Heel hook
- toe hooks Toe hook

B

Babyboxer Falling and landing safely, Glossary of climbing jargon
Back flag Back flag
back-step (see Backstep) Backstep
Backstep Backstep
Bailing Glossary of climbing jargon
- from a top-out Top-outs
- from dynos Falling and landing safely
Baker, John Lock-off
Barn door Barn door, Glossary of climbing jargon
barn-dooring (see Barn door) Barn door
Base of support Centre of gravity and base of support, Glossary of climbing jargon
Beginners
- common faults High step, Overhangs
Beta Glossary of climbing jargon
- adapting to your body Other people’s beta, and reading for your size
- from other climbers Other people’s beta, and reading for your size
- when to change When to change the beta
Bicycle Bicycle
bicycle clamp (see Bicycle) Bicycle
BMI Climbing heavier, Glossary of climbing jargon
Body tension Body tension, Glossary of climbing jargon
Body weight
- and grade Climbing heavier
- catching holds Latching
- load on the fingers Climbing heavier, Hands and holds
bridging (see Stemming) Stemming
bucket (see Jug) Jug
bump (see Bumping) Bumping
Bumping Bumping

C

Campus board Glossary of climbing jargon
- injury risk Starting as an adult
Campus move Campus move, Glossary of climbing jargon
campusing (see Campus move) Campus move
casting out (see Sitting into it) Sitting into it
catching (see Latching) Latching
Centre of gravity Centre of gravity and base of support, Glossary of climbing jargon
Chalk Mantle
Chalk marks The method, step by step, Volumes
chisel (see Open hand) Open hand
Circuits Circuits and colours, Indoor grades, Grade by grade, Glossary of climbing jargon
Climbing shoes Shoes
- downturned Shoes, Roofs, Glossary of climbing jargon
- fit Shoes
- for heel hooks Shoes
- for toe hooks Shoes
- stiff or soft Shoes, Run-and-jump
closed crimp (see Full crimp) Full crimp
collagen Glossary of climbing jargon
Commitment Slab technique, Volumes, Top-outs
comp slab (see Dynamic slab) Dynamic slab
Comp-style setting Dynamic movement, Glossary of climbing jargon
- reading What the setter had in mind
Competition set pieces Competition set pieces
Compression Compression
Conditions (temperature, humidity) Sloper
Contact strength Contact strength and grip endurance, V7 (Font 7A+), Glossary of climbing jargon
coordination move Glossary of climbing jargon
coordination slab (see Dynamic slab) Dynamic slab
Core Glossary of climbing jargon
- strength vs. technique Tension: connecting hands and feet
- training Pulling with the toes
core tension (see Body tension) Body tension
Corners Stemming, Glossary of climbing jargon
Counter-kick Cutting loose and swing control, Glossary of climbing jargon
counter-pressure (see Opposition) Opposition
crimp Glossary of climbing jargon
crimping (see Full crimp) Full crimp
cross-through (see Crossing hands) Crossing hands
cross-under (see Crossing hands) Crossing hands
Crossing hands Crossing hands
crossing in front (see Inside flag) Inside flag
crossover (see Crossing hands) Crossing hands
Crux Glossary of climbing jargon
- reading The method, step by step
cut loose (see Cutting loose and swing control) Cutting loose and swing control
cutting feet (see Cutting loose and swing control) Cutting loose and swing control
Cutting loose and swing control Cutting loose and swing control, Glossary of climbing jargon

D

DAV VB–V0 (Font 3–4+), Falling and landing safely, Glossary of climbing jargon
dead point (see Deadpoint) Deadpoint
Deadpoint Deadpoint, Dynamic movement, Glossary of climbing jargon
- origin of the term Where “deadpoint” comes from
deliberate practice Glossary of climbing jargon
dihedral (see Stemming) Stemming
Direction of pull Holds have a direction, Hold direction and body position, Every hold has a direction
Double clutch Competition set pieces, Glossary of climbing jargon
Double dyno Double dyno
double move (see Bumping) Bumping
Downclimbing Falling and landing safely, Glossary of climbing jargon
- as a footwork drill Feet first
- finding the way down The method, step by step, Top-outs
drag (see Open hand) Open hand
drilling the toe (see Pulling with the toes) Pulling with the toes
Drills Learning technique
- catching a bar Latching
- foot swaps Foot swap
- gripping lightly Contact strength and grip endurance
- keeping the feet on Pulling with the toes
- ladder for any technique Learning technique
- quiet feet Precise footwork
- taping hold directions Every hold has a direction
Drop knee Drop knee
Dual texture Positive and negative holds, Glossary of climbing jargon
dynamic layback (see Deadpoint) Deadpoint
Dynamic movement Static and dynamic, Static or dynamic?, Glossary of climbing jargon
Dynamic slab Dynamic slab
dynamic toe catch (see Jumping to a foothold) Jumping to a foothold
dynamic weight shift (see Hip pump) Hip pump
Dyno Dyno, Glossary of climbing jargon

E

Eating disorders Climbing heavier
Edge Glossary of climbing jargon
- depth and slope Positive and negative holds
Edging Edging
Egyptian (see Drop knee) Drop knee
Errata Corrections to the second edition
Experts and novices
- distance from the wall Hips and the wall
- how they move Learning technique
- route reading Why read first
- weight shifting Centre of gravity and base of support
external focus Glossary of climbing jargon

F

Falling Falling and landing safely
- how to land Falling and landing safely, Jump start, Dyno
- judging the landing Static or dynamic?, Falling and landing safely
- learning from a fall The method, step by step
- on dynos Dyno
- practice Dynamic slab, VB–V0 (Font 3–4+), Falling and landing safely
- with a foot or leg locked Heel–toe cam, Knee bar
Fear Learning technique
feature Glossary of climbing jargon
Feedback Learning technique
Feehally, Ned Full crimp
feet off (see Cutting loose and swing control) Cutting loose and swing control
Feet popping off Precise footwork, Pulling with the toes, Compression, Feet
finding the sweet spot (see Re-gripping and adjusting) Re-gripping and adjusting
Finger strength
- by grade V4 (Font 6B/6B+)
- open hand and half crimp Open hand
Fingerboard Glossary of climbing jargon
- full-crimp training Full crimp
- when to start Starting as an adult, VB–V0 (Font 3–4+)
flag (see Side flag) Side flag
flagging (see Side flag) Side flag
flake Glossary of climbing jargon
Flashing Flash or project?, Learning technique, Glossary of climbing jargon
- routine Flash or project?
Font grades Glossary of climbing jargon, Grade conversion
foot cam (see Heel–toe cam) Heel–toe cam
foot catch (see Jumping to a foothold) Jumping to a foothold
foot on a handhold (see Hand–foot match) Hand–foot match
Foot swap Foot swap
foot switch (see Foot swap) Foot swap
Foot-first sequencing Feet first
footless move (see Campus move) Campus move
Footwork
- foot height Feet first
- how often to move the feet Feet first
- sequencing Feet first
- signs of climbing hands-first Feet first
- why it matters Feet and legs
forerun Glossary of climbing jargon
four-point start Glossary of climbing jargon
Friction Glossary of climbing jargon
- smearing Smearing
friction climbing (see Slab technique) Slab technique
frog legs (see Frog position) Frog position
Frog position Frog position
frogging (see Frog position) Frog position
front-on (see Frog position) Frog position
Front-pointing Front-pointing
Full crimp Full crimp

G

Gaston Gaston, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Hold direction and body position
generating momentum (see Hip pump) Hip pump
getting long (see Turning the hip in) Turning the hip in
Gill, John Where “deadpoint” comes from, One-handed dyno
Grades
- how gyms grade Indoor grades
- in a new gym Indoor grades
- indoor Indoor grades
- indoor variation Indoor grades, Grade by grade
- V-scale and Font Grade conversion
Gresham, Neil The method, step by step, Shoes, High step, Foot swap, Toe hook, Weight shift, Turning the hip in, Side flag, Lock-off, Compression, Sloper, Overhangs
Grip endurance Contact strength and grip endurance
grip switching (see Re-gripping and adjusting) Re-gripping and adjusting
Güllich, Wolfgang Where “deadpoint” comes from
guppy (see Wrapping) Wrapping
Gym rules The method, step by step, Sit starts

H

halb aufgestellt (see Half crimp) Half crimp
Half crimp Half crimp
half-crimp (see Half crimp) Half crimp
Hampton, Kris Toe hook
hamstring Glossary of climbing jargon
Hand sequence The method, step by step
Hand size Other people’s beta, and reading for your size, Pinch, Pocket, Climbing small
Hand–foot match Hand–foot match
handle (see Jug) Jug
hangboard Glossary of climbing jargon
hanging on your skeleton (see Straight arms) Straight arms
heel (see Heel hook) Heel hook
Heel hook Heel hook, Glossary of climbing jargon
heel-hook rockover (see Top-outs) Top-outs
heel-toe (see Heel–toe cam) Heel–toe cam
Heel–toe cam Heel–toe cam
heel-toe lock (see Heel–toe cam) Heel–toe cam
heelhook (see Heel hook) Heel hook
Height Climbing tall
high foot (see High step) High step
High step High step
Hinge Rotation and the barn door, Reading the wall for body position, Glossary of climbing jargon
hip in (see Turning the hip in) Turning the hip in
Hip pop Deadpoint, Glossary of climbing jargon
Hip pump Hip pump
hip to the wall (see Turning the hip in) Turning the hip in
Hips
- distance from the wall Hips and the wall
- shifting first Centre of gravity and base of support
hole (see Pocket) Pocket
Hooper, Jason Tension: connecting hands and feet, Crossing hands, Sitting into it, Body tension, Half crimp, Open hand, Full crimp
Hörst, Eric Barn door, Backstep, Twist lock, Overhangs, Starting as an adult
hugging (see Compression) Compression

I

incut Glossary of climbing jargon
Injuries
- ankle Heel–toe cam, Starting as an adult
- elbow Dyno, Falling and landing safely
- epidemiology Starting as an adult
- finger Static or dynamic?, One-handed dyno, Latching, Starting as an adult
- from falls Falling and landing safely
- hamstring Heel hook, Compression
- knee Climbing tall, Rockover, Heel hook, Drop knee, Dyno
- lumbrical Pocket
- pulley Full crimp, Half crimp, Open hand
- shoulder Straight arms, Opposition, Climbing heavier, Starting as an adult
- wrist Undercling, Sloper
inside corner (see Stemming) Stemming
inside edging (see Edging) Edging
Inside flag Inside flag
intermediate Glossary of climbing jargon
inverse crimp (see Using the thumb) Using the thumb

J

jerk Glossary of climbing jargon
Jug Jug, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Hold direction and body position
jump (see Dyno) Dyno
Jump start Jump start
jumping start (see Jump start) Jump start
Jumping to a foothold Jumping to a foothold

K

keeping your feet on (see Body tension) Body tension
Knee bar Knee bar
knee clamp (see Knee bar) Knee bar
knee drop (see Drop knee) Drop knee
knee scum (see Knee bar) Knee bar
kneebar (see Knee bar) Knee bar
Kneepads Knee bar

L

Lache Competition set pieces, Glossary of climbing jargon
Latching Latching
Lattice Training Open hand, Static or dynamic?, Cutting loose and swing control, Grade by grade, From V4 to V5, Climbing small
layaway (see Sidepull) Sidepull
Layback Layback
laybacking (see Layback) Layback
LCL Glossary of climbing jargon
leg swing (see Pogo) Pogo
lieback (see Layback) Layback
ligament Glossary of climbing jargon
Limiter, finding your From V4 to V5
Line, the Reading the wall for body position, Glossary of climbing jargon
link-up Glossary of climbing jargon
lip Glossary of climbing jargon
Lock-off Lock-off, Glossary of climbing jargon
locking off (see Lock-off) Lock-off
low start (see Sit starts) Sit starts
lumbrical Glossary of climbing jargon
lunge (see One-handed dyno) One-handed dyno

M

MacLeod, Dave Starting as an adult
mantel (see Mantle) Mantle
mantelshelf (see Mantle) Mantle
Mantle Mantle, Glossary of climbing jargon
marker hold Glossary of climbing jargon
match (see Matching hands) Matching hands
matching (see Matching hands) Matching hands
matching feet (see Foot swap) Foot swap
Matching hands Matching hands, Glossary of climbing jargon
Mats Falling and landing safely
Max hang Glossary of climbing jargon
- averages by grade V3 (Font 6A/6A+)
MCL Glossary of climbing jargon
meat-hook (see Wrapping) Wrapping
meniscus Glossary of climbing jargon
micro beta Glossary of climbing jargon
Miming moves The method, step by step
mo (see Dyno) Dyno
Mobility Climbing tall
- hips High step, Frog position
Momentum Static and dynamic, Momentum and timing, Glossary of climbing jargon
mono (see Pocket) Pocket
moon-kick (see Pogo) Pogo
MoonBoard Pulling with the toes
Motor learning Learning technique

N

Negative hold Positive and negative holds, Glossary of climbing jargon

O

Off foot Crossing hands, From V4 to V5, Glossary of climbing jargon
offene Hand (see Open hand) Open hand
Ondra, Adam Climbing tall
One-handed dyno One-handed dyno
onsight Glossary of climbing jargon
open book (see Stemming) Stemming
open crimp (see Half crimp) Half crimp
open grip (see Open hand) Open hand
Open hand Open hand, Glossary of climbing jargon
opposing forces (see Opposition) Opposition
Opposite hand and foot Rotation and the barn door, Feet first, Reading the wall for body position
Opposition Opposition
outside edging (see Edging) Edging
outside flag (UK) (see Back flag) Back flag
outside flag (US) (see Side flag) Side flag
Overhangs Overhangs, Glossary of climbing jargon
- hip position Hips and the wall, Turning the hip in

P

Paddle dyno Competition set pieces, Glossary of climbing jargon
palm press (see Palming) Palming
palmar plate Glossary of climbing jargon
Palming Palming
parkour Glossary of climbing jargon
parkour start (see Run-and-jump) Run-and-jump
Pinch Pinch, Glossary of climbing jargon
pinch grip (see Pinch) Pinch
Pivoting Pivoting
Plateau
- at V2 V2 (Font 5+)
- climbing one style V3 (Font 6A/6A+), From V4 to V5
- V4 to V5 From V4 to V5
- when it happens V3 (Font 6A/6A+)
plumb line Glossary of climbing jargon
Pocket Pocket, Glossary of climbing jargon
- as a foothold Front-pointing
Pogo Pogo
Positive hold Positive and negative holds, Glossary of climbing jargon
pre-loading (see Sitting into it) Sitting into it
Precise footwork Precise footwork
precision feet (see Precise footwork) Precise footwork
press-out (see Mantle) Mantle
pressing (see Palming) Palming
problem Glossary of climbing jargon
Progression
- years climbing Grade by grade
Progression map Progression map
Projecting Flash or project?, Glossary of climbing jargon
- how many attempts Flash or project?
- method Flash or project?
Pulley Glossary of climbing jargon
- injury Full crimp
Pulling with the toes Pulling with the toes
Pump Glossary of climbing jargon
- from a wrong pull direction Every hold has a direction
- on every problem Endurance
- reducing Straight arms: hang on your skeleton
pumping (see Hip pump) Hip pump
push–pull (see Opposition) Opposition

Q

Quick reference On the mat
quiet feet (see Precise footwork) Precise footwork

R

rail Glossary of climbing jargon
Randall, Tom Starting as an adult
Re-gripping and adjusting Re-gripping and adjusting
readjusting (see Re-gripping and adjusting) Re-gripping and adjusting
rear flag (see Back flag) Back flag
Recovery Starting as an adult
RED-S Climbing heavier, Glossary of climbing jargon
Reibungstritt (see Smearing) Smearing
Rest between attempts Rest between attempts
Resting on the wall The method, step by step, Knee bar, Stemming, Jug
reverse bicycle (see Bicycle) Bicycle
reverse flag (see Back flag) Back flag
reverse sidepull (see Gaston) Gaston
rock-over (see Rockover) Rockover
rocking over (see Rockover) Rockover
Rockover Rockover
roof climbing (see Roofs) Roofs
Roofs Roofs, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body tension Body tension
- knee bars Knee bar
- toe hooks Toe hook
Rotation Rotation and the barn door
Route reading Why read first, Holds have a direction
- body position Reading the wall for body position
- by kind of wall What to read first on each kind of wall
- dynamic moves Momentum and timing
- footholds The method, step by step, From foothold to technique
- traps Why read first
Rowland, Dave Barn door, Turning the hip in, Backstep, Back flag
Run-and-jump Run-and-jump
running start (see Run-and-jump) Run-and-jump

S

sagging (see Sitting into it) Sitting into it
sandbagged Glossary of climbing jargon
Schweizer, Andreas Undercling, Full crimp
scrunchy Glossary of climbing jargon
SDS (see Sit starts) Sit starts
send Glossary of climbing jargon
setter Glossary of climbing jargon
Setter intent What the setter had in mind
Setting
- clichés What the setter had in mind
- dangerous jumps Falling and landing safely
- the setter’s brief What the setter had in mind
shake out Glossary of climbing jargon
shoulder impingement Glossary of climbing jargon
Shoulders
- broad Crossing hands
- on straight arms Straight arms: hang on your skeleton
- setting the shoulder blades Straight arms, Latching
Side flag Side flag, Glossary of climbing jargon
side pull (see Sidepull) Sidepull
side-on (see Turning the hip in) Turning the hip in
Sidepull Sidepull, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Hold direction and body position
silent feet (see Precise footwork) Precise footwork
single dyno (see One-handed dyno) One-handed dyno
Sit starts Sit starts, Glossary of climbing jargon
sit-down start (see Sit starts) Sit starts
sitting back (see Sitting into it) Sitting into it
Sitting into it Sitting into it
Skin Open hand
slab (see Slab technique) Slab technique
Slab technique Slab technique, Glossary of climbing jargon
- hip position Hips and the wall
- small steps High step
slap (see Deadpoint) Deadpoint
SLAP tear Glossary of climbing jargon
Sloper Sloper, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Hold direction and body position, Reading the wall for body position
sloping hold (see Sloper) Sloper
Small climbers Climbing small, Other people’s beta, and reading for your size
- backsteps Backstep
- edging Edging
- hand–foot match Hand–foot match
- heel hooks Heel hook
- high steps High step
- how to climb Climbing small
- jump starts Jump start
- lock-offs Lock-off
- reading a problem Other people’s beta, and reading for your size
smear (see Smearing) Smearing
Smearing Smearing, Glossary of climbing jargon
smedging (see Smearing) Smearing
soft Glossary of climbing jargon
spin-out Glossary of climbing jargon
Spotting Heel–toe cam, Falling and landing safely, Glossary of climbing jargon
square on (see Frog position) Frog position
squeezing (see Compression) Compression
Standing reach Climbing tall
Start holds The method, step by step, Glossary of climbing jargon
static lock (see Lock-off) Lock-off
Static movement Static and dynamic, Static or dynamic?, Glossary of climbing jargon
steep ground (see Overhangs) Overhangs
stem (see Stemming) Stemming
Stemming Stemming
stepping through (see Backstep) Backstep
sticking the move (see Latching) Latching
Straight arms Straight arms
straight-arming (see Straight arms) Straight arms
Stretching Starting as an adult
Studies
- body shape and ability Climbing tall
- edge depth and slope Positive and negative holds
- finger strength and grade From V4 to V5
- fingerboard training Starting as an adult
- grades in 40 US gyms Indoor grades
- injuries from falls Dyno, Falling and landing safely
- knee injuries Climbing tall
- previewing a route Why read first
- pulley loads Full crimp
- warm-up and stretching Starting as an adult
support (see Palming) Palming
Sweet spot Re-gripping and adjusting, Glossary of climbing jargon
swinging open (see Barn door) Barn door
swivelling the foot (see Pivoting) Pivoting

T

Tall climbers
- backsteps Backstep
- body tension Body tension
- cross moves Crossing hands
- drop knee Drop knee
- dynamic moves Dynamic movement
- dynos Dyno
- falling Falling and landing safely
- frog position Frog position
- heel hooks Heel hook
- hidden technique gaps Body positioning
- high steps High step
- lock-offs Lock-off
- mantles Mantle
- placing the feet Precise footwork
- problems that feel hard Climbing tall
- reading a problem Other people’s beta, and reading for your size
- rockovers Rockover
- scrunchy problems Reading and tactics
- sit starts Edging, Sit starts
- skipping intermediates Bumping
- toe hooks Toe hook
- where height helps Climbing tall
Tendon Glossary of climbing jargon
- adaptation Starting as an adult
tendon glides Glossary of climbing jargon
tension (see Body tension) Body tension
three-finger drag (see Open hand) Open hand
throw (see One-handed dyno) One-handed dyno
thumb catch (see Using the thumb) Using the thumb
thumb lock (see Full crimp) Full crimp
thumb press (see Using the thumb) Using the thumb
thumb wrap (see Using the thumb) Using the thumb
thumbercling (see Using the thumb) Using the thumb
Tic-tac Competition set pieces, Glossary of climbing jargon
Toe hook Toe hook
toe pull (see Pulling with the toes) Pulling with the toes
toe scum (see Toe hook) Toe hook
toe-hook catch (see Jumping to a foothold) Jumping to a foothold
toehook (see Toe hook) Toe hook
toeing (see Front-pointing) Front-pointing
toeing in (see Front-pointing) Front-pointing
Top-outs Top-outs, Glossary of climbing jargon
topping out (see Top-outs) Top-outs
Torr, Ollie Starting as an adult
toter Punkt (see Deadpoint) Deadpoint
training board Glossary of climbing jargon
Traverses Traverses
traversing (see Traverses) Traverses
Troubleshooting Troubleshooting: from symptom to technique
Turning the hip in Turning the hip in
turning the lip (see Roofs) Roofs
Twist lock Twist lock
twist-locking (see Twist lock) Twist lock
twisting in (see Turning the hip in) Turning the hip in
two-finger pocket (see Pocket) Pocket
two-handed dyno (see Double dyno) Double dyno

U

Undercling Undercling, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Hold direction and body position
undercut (see Undercling) Undercling
using intermediates (see Bumping) Bumping
Using the thumb Using the thumb

V

V-scale Glossary of climbing jargon
variable practice Glossary of climbing jargon
Vertical walls Vertical walls
- body position Hips and the wall
Video analysis Learning technique
Visualisation The method, step by step
voll aufgestellt (see Full crimp) Full crimp
volume climbing (see Volumes) Volumes
Volume mantle Mantle, Glossary of climbing jargon
Volumes Volumes, Glossary of climbing jargon
- as a slab How the wall angle changes your body
- body position Hold direction and body position
- gym rules The method, step by step
- heel hooks Heel hook
- smearing on Smearing
- squeezing Compression
- standing on Volumes

W

Wall angle How the wall angle changes your body, Glossary of climbing jargon
- body position Reading the wall for body position
Warm-up Starting as an adult
- before crimping Full crimp
- before heel hooks Heel hook
- for dynamic moves Dynamic slab
Watching others Other people’s beta, and reading for your size, Learning technique
Weight loss Climbing heavier
Weight shift Weight shift
weight transfer (see Weight shift) Weight shift
weighting the foot (see Weight shift) Weight shift
Women climbers From V4 to V5, Climbing heavier
World Cup
- coordination moves Dynamic slab
- rest between attempts Rest between attempts
- success by attempt Flash or project?
- time spent reading Why read first
wrap (see Wrapping) Wrapping
Wrapping Wrapping
Wrists Open hand