You stand on the very tip of the shoe, with the foot pointing straight at the wall. It is how you use pockets and small holds that face straight out.
Grade Needed on your first V1s with pockets or small holds that face straight out (judgement).
How to do it
Lean back from the wall. Look at the shape of the pocket [86].
Turn the foot to match that shape. Point the toe into the deepest part [86].
Use one toe’s width if that is all there is. Don’t cram the whole foot in [86].
Press down through the front of the foot. Lift the heel a little so the calf works [81].
Keep your belly and lower back firm. They hold the foot in place [88].
Figure 13 The pocket is drawn cut in half. (a) The toe rests on the front edge of the pocket at the easiest angle. It levers out. (b) The toe points into the back of the pocket. The heel is slightly raised.
Common mistakes
Standing on the tip on blank wall to gain reach. Smear with the heel low instead [86].
