You turn the shoe on the foothold without lifting it. The big toe stays put while the heel swings. This lets your hips turn, for example from facing the wall into a backstep.
Grade Matters from V2–V3, when your hips start to turn on steep walls (judgement).
How to do it
When you first place the foot, stand on the near side of the hold. That leaves room to turn. Otherwise you spin off the far side [86].
Use the big toe as the pivot. Turn your body over it [96].
Swing the heel while the toe stays on its spot. The inside edge becomes the outside edge as your hip turns in [86, 95].
Keep your weight on the foot. You are steering it, not replacing it.
Practise on a big hold first. Then use smaller ones [95].
Figure 17 Right foot seen from above. The front of the shoe stays on the hold while the heel swings round. The inside edge (dashed) becomes the outside edge.
Common mistakes
Turning on the middle of the foot instead of the big toe. The foot then needs resetting [96].
