Also called heel-toe lock, foot cam, heel-toe · Feet and legs
You lock your foot between two surfaces, with the heel pressing down on one and the toe pressing up against the other. A good cam takes much of your weight off your hands [88].
Grade Uncommon indoors, because it needs a gap of the right size. When it appears, it is usually on V5 or harder (judgement).
How to do it
Set the heel on a positive hold (one with a flat top, or an edge that curls inward) [88].
Turn or press the toe up against the feature above it. The foot locks in place [88, 91].
Or reverse it: set a toe hook at the back of a roof. Then press the heel against the wall below it [49].
Unlock the foot before you move on or jump off.
Figure 25 Seen from behind. The heel presses down on the big hold. The top of the toe presses up under the volume. The foot is locked between them.
Common mistakes
Falling with the foot locked. Some cams stay locked in a fall and can damage joints [88]. You can break an ankle this way [98].
Trying it without a spotter (a friend who guides your fall onto the mat) [91].
