You add a turn of the shoulders to a backstep or drop knee. The reaching-side hip and shoulder turn to the wall while the holding arm pulls down to your ribs. Your body locks, so the free hand reaches with little effort [127, 137].
Grade Hörst starts it on boulders about 20° overhanging, then moves steeper [137]. The full twist of hips and shoulders pays from about V4.
How to do it
Set your feet. Backstep if the foothold is on the line. Drop a knee if it is behind the line [121, 122].
Put your right foot on a foothold out to the right, or flag it [136].
Start with the right arm straight. Lean out on it while your hips twist in [127].
As your left hip nears the wall, turn your left shoulder in too [127].
Bend the right arm as the shoulder turns. The elbow ends by your ribs. Your chin ends near your right shoulder [127].
Press with both feet at once. Pull the right hand down and in [137].
Reach with the left hand. Do it all as one movement, without a pause [127].
On flat holds or gastons, pull along the hold’s long edge, not across it [127].
Figure 44 (a) Set: right arm straight, left foot backstepped, hips half turned. (b) Locked. The left hip and shoulder turn in. The right elbow comes to the ribs. The left hand reaches high. (c) The lock from the side. The right forearm points into the wall.
Common mistakes
Not finding the exact locked position. Shuffle until it feels solid.
