Reading the WallBody positioning

Opposition

V3+

Two contacts push or pull against each other, so holds that are useless alone start to work [16]. The sideways forces cancel out. The squeeze presses skin and rubber onto the holds, so friction holds you up.

Grade Hand-against-foot opposition, as in a layback, appears from V2. Squeezing with two hands appears from V3–V4.

How to do it

  1. Read which way each hold faces. Pull the opposite way [42].
  2. Find a partner contact that pushes or pulls the opposite way.
  3. Hand against hand: pull two sidepulls towards your chest. Or push two gastons apart, elbows out [16].
  4. Hand against foot: pull an undercling up while your high feet press into the wall [9]. Or pull a sidepull while the opposite foot stands on its outside edge [16].
  5. Foot against foot: push your feet apart, as in stemming or a drop knee [132, 144]. A bicycle squeezes one hold between both feet [113].
  6. Load both contacts at once. Then move the limb that isn’t part of the pair.
  7. Keep your trunk tight. If your core sags, the squeeze lets go [15].
A climber from behind, arms out to the sides, pulling two far-apart side-facing holds towards each other.
Figure 42 Two sidepulls face away from each other. Pulling them towards each other holds you on.

Common mistakes

  • Pulling straight down on a sidepull or undercling.
  • Pushing gastons apart on a steep wall for long. It strains the shoulders [16].
Related
Layback, Stemming, Compression, Drop knee, Body tension
Watch
(Climbing Analysis) | The Importance of Using Counterpressure (Movement for Climbers)
Sources
[9, 15, 16, 42, 113, 132, 144]
Referenced from
Holds have a direction, Stemming, Side flag, Layback, Body tension, Compression, Gaston, Arêtes