Also called weighting the foot, weight transfer · Body positioning
Before you stand on a foot, move your hips sideways until they sit over it, then stand up on that leg alone. Your hips zig-zag up the wall [5], as the balance figure in Chapter 1 shows.
Grade The UK’s coach training lists weight transfer as a movement skill [124]. Gresham names a centred, unshifted body as the first habit of off-balance climbers [5].
How to do it
Place the foot exactly. Press a little weight into it first, so the rubber bites [3].
Slide your hips sideways until your belly button is over that foot.
On a slab, also push your hips out from the wall so they sit above the foot [3].
Stand up on that leg. Let the other foot go light.
Reach only once you are standing. Feet first, then hands [5].
On the next move, shift your hips the other way.
Common mistakes
Hauling with an arm while the foot only follows. Push with the leg. Let the arm only steady you [17].