Reading the WallBody positioning

Side flag

V2+

You stretch your free leg straight out to its own side and press the foot on the wall. The leg balances your weight on the far side of the hinge, so you don’t swing open [18, 20]. US sources call this an outside flag [139]. Gresham seems to use that name for a back flag [140], so this book avoids it.

Grade From about V2, reaches start to swing you open where your free foot has no hold (judgement). The UK’s coach training lists flagging as a steep-wall skill [11]. A US gym still teaches it to climbers stuck at V5 [141].

How to do it

  1. Find your hinge: the line from the hand that stays on to the foot you stand on.
  2. Check that your free foot is already on the far side of that line from your reach. If not, use a back flag from V3 or an inside flag from V4.
  3. Stretch that leg straight out to its side [20].
  4. Press the inside edge or the ball of the foot into the wall. Blank wall is fine [20, 142].
  5. Shift your hips over the standing foot [18].
  6. Reach.
  7. Still swinging? Move the flag foot. A foot too low or too far from your body gives little leverage. On overhangs, push it up and into the wall [105].
A climber from behind on the left hand and right foot, swinging open, then balanced by the left leg stretched out to the side.
Figure 32 The left hand sits above the right foot. (a) With the left leg dangling, reaching right swings the body open. (b) The left leg stretched out left presses the wall and balances you.

Common mistakes

  • A loose, dangling flag leg [20].
  • Flagging on a slab. It rarely works there [20].
  • Stabbing at the hold before you have settled [20].
Related
Back flag, Inside flag, Barn door, Opposition
Watch
How to Flag - A Climbing Technique for Achieving Balance (Movement for Climbers); Flagging (The Boardroom Climbing Ltd)
Sources
[11, 18, 20, 105, 130, 139–142]
Referenced from
Rotation and the barn door, The method, step by step, Foot swap, Reading the wall for body position, Barn door, Back flag, Inside flag, Gaston, Deadpoint, One-handed dyno, Vertical walls, Traverses, Top-outs, Arêtes, Progression map, V2 (Font 5+), From V4 to V5, Learning technique, Balance and swinging, Corners and traverses, Glossary of climbing jargon