Reading the WallBody positioning

Layback

V2+

You pull sideways on a vertical edge and lean away from it while your feet push the other way against the wall. Your arms and body make the shape of a “7” [102].

Grade Arêtes and lines of sidepulls appear at V2–V3. The UK’s coach training lists laybacking as an opposition technique [11].

How to do it

  1. Grip the edge with both hands, or one hand on it and one on the next sidepull [51, 102].
  2. Treat the edge as a sidepull: pull it towards you and hang on the other side.
  3. Straighten your arms and lean away [102].
  4. Put your feet high on the wall. Push them against the pull of your hands [51].
  5. Keep your core (the muscles around your trunk) tight [51].
  6. Find the point where you neither fall back nor swing round. Lose it and you swing off like a door [102].
  7. Move your hands and feet up in short steps. Keep the push and the pull equal.
A climber from the side, leaning back on straight arms from the edge of a flake with both feet pressed against it.
Figure 34 Side view of a flake (a thin blade standing off the wall). Straight arms pull its edge out from the wall. The feet press high on the flake. The hips hang low.

Common mistakes

  • Staying front-on to a sidepull or pinch with your hips parallel to the wall [145].
  • Feet too high. Your arms then hold more of your weight.
Tall climbers. Your long body makes a long “7”, which closes quickly when your feet go high. Keep them a little lower than a shorter climber would.
Related
Opposition, Barn door, Stemming, Arêtes, Sidepull
Sources
[11, 51, 102, 145]
Referenced from
Holds have a direction, Reading the wall for body position, Barn door, Stemming, Opposition, Compression, Sidepull, Arêtes, Sit starts, Progression map, V2 (Font 5+)