Reading the WallHands and holds

Sidepull

V1+

A sidepull is a hold that faces sideways, away from your body. You pull it towards your middle and lean your body away from it [101, 102].

Grade Directional holds appear on easy problems. Movement gyms list them first among five essential techniques [42]. From V2, most problems need them.

How to do it

  1. Read which way the hold faces. A hold on your left whose edge faces left is a left-hand sidepull.
  2. Grip it thumb up, fingers pointing into the edge. Pull towards your middle.
  3. Lean away. Move your hips and shoulders right until your left arm is straight [101, 102].
  4. Push your feet the other way. Your left foot pushes left against its foothold [101].
  5. Turn side-on to reach. Later, a backstep or partial drop knee on the reaching side adds height [101].
  6. If there is a spot for your thumb on the back of the hold, squeeze it into a pinch [101].
A climber from behind on a side-facing hold, first under it and swinging open, then to its right and leaning away.
Figure 50 (a) Under a left-hand sidepull, the body swings open. (b) Body to the right of it, leaning away. The left foot pushes left.

Common mistakes

  • Feet in the wrong place, so nothing pushes against the pull. Put a foot under the hold.
Small climbers. Burying your hand in a deep sidepull or undercling feels secure but shortens your reach. When you need distance, slide your hand out towards the edge, as far as it still holds, before you move off it [62].
Related
Gaston, Layback, Barn door, Backstep, Drop knee, Pinch
Watch
Climbing Movement: 21. Side Pull Holds (Climbing Tech Tips)
Sources
[42, 62, 101, 102, 133]
Referenced from
Holds have a direction, The method, step by step, Hold direction and body position, Edging, Reading the wall for body position, Turning the hip in, Crossing hands, Layback, Backstep, Drop knee, Opposition, Twist lock, Jug, Undercling, Pinch, Gaston, Deadpoint, Cutting loose and swing control, Traverses, Progression map, V1 (Font 5), From V4 to V5, Climbing small, Holds, Glossary of climbing jargon, Problem 1: Slab, Problem 2: Traverse, Problem 3: Overhang