Reading the WallExercises

Problem 1 Slab

About V2. The wall leans back 15°, seen from behind. Start: both hands on A, feet on 1 and 2. Finish: both hands on E.

Read it yourself

  • Step 2. The wall leans back. What does Section 2.4 say to read first?
  • Step 3. Which way does C face? What can you do with B?
  • Step 4. Give B, C and D an L or an R.
  • Step 5. Foothold 4 is the big one. Count the bolt holes to it from foothold 2. How high is that compared with your hips? Which foot goes there? How does it get there?
  • Step 6. Where will you have least to pull on?
A slab from behind with five lettered holds, seven numbered footholds and a low volume.
Figure 2
The answer to problem 1

The moves

  1. Left foot on 1, right foot on 2. Smear your right foot on the volume, heel low.
  2. Move your hips over it and stand up. Left foot to 3.
  3. Move your hips over 3 and rise until your arms are straight. Right foot to 4, only 20 cm above 3.
  4. Press down on A with your right hand. Left hand to C, a sidepull. It faces left, so you lean right off it.
  5. Right hand to B, only to steer. Move your hips over 4 and rise.
  6. Left foot to 5. Stand up on your right foot and lean right until your left arm is straight. Right hand to D.
  7. Move your hips over 5. Right foot to 6 and stand on it. Left foot to 7 and stand on it. Right hand to E.
  8. Left hand to E.
The same slab with a climber on the big foothold; arrows take the feet up by way of the volume.
Figure 3 Move 6. Read a slab’s feet first: the volume turns the long step to 4 into two. The discs are moves 1 to 3.

Crux. Moves 5 and 6. Your right hand leaves A and your hips move right of it. C only stops you tipping right. B has no edge. So your feet hold you until your right hand reaches D. Move 7 is easier. You hold D while your feet move. Only the reach to E is on your feet alone.

Why the obvious try fails. You stay on A and step from 2 to 4, the biggest foothold. That is about 90 cm, level with your hips. Your knee folds tight and your hips have a long way to cross. A is a thin edge at shoulder height, so it helps little. Reaching for B falls short and brings your chest to the wall. Leaning in pushes your feet off [133, 243]. A high step on a slab upsets your balance [101]. When the big foothold is a long step, look for a smear on the way.

What to try next. If the smear slips as you stand, drop your heel and keep your hips over the foot. Commit all your weight at once [45, 243, 245]. If the shoe still skates, stand further out on the volume [43, 44]. You could also skip the volume: stay on 2 and take your left foot to 3. That small foothold is about 70 cm above the foot you stand on.

Entries
Slab technique, Smearing, Volumes, Sidepull, Rockover, High step