Reading the WallExercises

Problem 8 Cave

About V6. The wall overhangs 40°, seen from behind. C has room for one hand. Start: left hand on B, right hand on C. Finish: both hands on F.

Read it yourself

  • Step 3. Which way does each hold face?
  • Step 4. Give each hold above the start an L or an R.
  • Step 5. Look where the footholds sit. Which start hand can’t let go without your body swinging? What could stop the swing?
  • Step 6. Where is the crux?
A 40-degree overhang from behind: the footholds all sit right of the middle and one big hold sits far out to the left.
Figure 16
The answer to problem 8

The moves

  1. Left foot on 1, right foot on 2. Rise on your right foot. A faces left: hook the top of your left toes behind it. Bend the ankle up towards your shin and keep the leg nearly straight. Hold it with leg tension and don’t curl your toes [114].
  2. Keep both hands on. Right foot up to 3.
  3. Press up on your right foot until the hook leg goes tight. Keep your right arm straight at first and lock it as your shoulders reach C. Left hand to D with a small deadpoint.
  4. Your left hand and right foot now oppose each other, so take the hook off in small steps [49]. Left foot to B, then right foot to 4.
  5. Right hand to E. You may skip it with a deadpoint to F.
  6. Right hand to F, then left hand to F.
The same wall with a climber: left toes hooked behind the far left hold, right foot pushing, left hand on high hold D.
Figure 17 Move 3. The toe hook holds you in. The dashed line is the hinge.

Crux. Move 3. When your left hand lets go of B, your right hand and right foot hold you on one side. You swing open like a door unless something stops it. C faces up and right, so it takes the hook’s pull. D faces up and left, so it holds as you catch it.

Why the obvious try fails. Your right hand and foot call for a back flag, so you try one. A flag wants your hips over your right foot [20]. To reach D from there, C must come down to your chest. There it can only press, so it can’t hold you in (judgement). Stay low with your hips towards D and the door opens. A toe hook on the left holds you in with C at your shoulder [112]. With all the footholds on one side, try a backstep or a hook on the other.

What to try next. If the toe creeps out, pull it and your right hand towards each other [114]. A heel behind A also holds you in and brings D closer, but your hips sit further from the hinge (judgement). A backstep with your left foot on 3 and your right leg out is another option. It puts your outside edge on a small foothold [119] and costs a little more lock. A fast throw from feet 2 and 3 can beat the door [19], but you land on D at full stretch and swinging.

Tall climbers. Your longer lever makes the hook harder to hold (judgement). Try the backstep.
Small climbers. From the hook, D is out of reach. Use a bigger deadpoint or the backstep.
Entries
Toe hook, Barn door, Back flag, Backstep