Reading the WallBody positioning

Bumping

V3+

You move the same hand twice in a row: first to a small hold on the way, an intermediate, then on to the target. The other hand and your feet stay put.

Grade From about V3, setters (the people who design the problems) put targets past arm’s reach with small holds on the way.

How to do it

  1. Keep the holding arm straight and your hips set. On steep ground, turn a hip in.
  2. Go to the intermediate fast. Weight it only long enough to stay in balance.
  3. Carry straight on to the target. Don’t settle on the intermediate.
  4. On one big hold, catch the nearest part first. Then bump to its best part.
  5. When you are tired, look again for small footholds lower and closer in. They let you move up in short steps instead of lunging [5].
A climber from behind, with numbered arrows moving the right hand up through a small hold to a higher one.
Figure 43 The right hand goes to a small intermediate (1), then on to the jug (2).

Common mistakes

  • Fixating on the biggest holds [5].
  • Ignoring small footholds. A higher foot often makes the hand intermediate unnecessary.
Tall climbers. You can often skip intermediates, but that can leave you stretched out with no way to move your feet. A shorter climber’s sequence is sometimes easier.
Related
Matching hands, Crossing hands, Deadpoint, Re-gripping and adjusting
Sources
[5]
Referenced from
Reading the wall for body position, Matching hands, Competition set pieces, Glossary of climbing jargon