8.1 VB–V0 (Font 3–4+)
What problems look like
The wall is vertical, a gentle slab (leaning back) or a slight overhang. The holds are jugs and deep edges you can wrap your fingers over. Each foothold takes your whole forefoot. Problems have four to eight moves, laid out like a ladder with a foothold under each reach. No move needs momentum, so you can stop and hang anywhere.
Techniques that start to matter
Three habits carry you through this band and every band after it. Place each foot exactly (Precise footwork). When you pause on an overhang, hang on straight arms with your shoulders set; on a vertical wall, stand tall. Move up by standing on your feet, not by pulling with your arms. Learn to jump off and land too (Section 9.6): NICAS and the DAV both start their schemes with how to boulder safely [160, 252].
| Technique | Category |
|---|---|
| Weight shift | Body positioning |
| Straight arms | Body positioning |
| Precise footwork | Feet and legs |
| Edging | Feet and legs |
| Jug | Hands and holds |
Focus
- Look at each foothold until your shoe is on it. Then put your weight on it. Place the inside edge of your big toe on the best part of the hold.
- Climb many different problems each session. One Lattice post advises 6–12 months of climbing before fingerboard training [169]. Coaches differ on gentle hangs (Section 9.4).
- Learn how your gym marks problems: which holds are the start, how to finish and which colour is which grade [32].
Reading problems at this grade
- Find the start holds (often one marked hold per hand) and the finish hold.
- Count the hand moves. Say which hand goes to each hold.
- Point out the foothold for each reach. If a foothold sits right under your next handhold, step up onto it before you reach.
Physical side
Nothing specific. Any healthy adult has the strength for this band.
Why people stall here
- Bent arms. You get pumped (tired, swollen forearms) after a few moves, and coaches put it down to bent elbows. Fix (coaching advice): pause before every reach. Straighten your arms on an overhang and stand tall on a vertical wall.
- Noisy feet. Your shoes scuff and slip off. Fix: climb whole problems placing every foot without a sound.
- Fear of falling. Fix: practise falling from low down, a little higher each session (Section 9.6).
One blog says most people get through this band in their first few sessions [170].