8.10 V8 and above (Font 7B and up)

What problems look like

Expect hard versions of everything above: the steepest walls, and holds that only work in one exact position. Many problems copy the style of training boards. Sequences are long and powerful (judgement).

Techniques that start to matter

This book’s catalogue has nothing new for this band. Progress comes from strength on specific grips and from beta worked out for your body.

None listed.

Focus

Build strength for specific grips, pinches and squeezing. Refine your tactics.

Reading problems at this grade

Your build drives the solutions. Read for your body, not an average one.

Physical side

Lattice’s V8–V11 band adds about 38 kg on a two-arm max hang [254]. Climbers in that band train 4.4 hours a week [268]. Above roughly 160–165% of bodyweight on the weighted pull-up test, Lattice sees diminishing returns from more pulling strength in men [267].

Why people stall here

The data doesn’t show what holds people here. Climbers at this level report about ten years of climbing on average, more if they are older (see the chapter’s opening box). Lattice, which sells training plans, reports a 51-year-old client sending V8 on one [269] (see Section 9.4).