8.5 V4 (Font 6B/6B+)
What problems look like
Expect overhangs of 30–45°, or vertical walls with poor feet. Crimps and rounded holds replace most jugs. Footholds are small edges or the faces of volumes. A V4 often combines two or three techniques, e.g. a heel hook that sets up a long reach. One or two moves need momentum, e.g. a jump to a big hold or a coordination move (a timed sequence of jumps or swings). Problems have four to eight hard moves.
Techniques that start to matter
The heel hook becomes an active pull: bend the knee and pull with the hamstring (the muscle at the back of the thigh) to draw your hips in. Add the toe hook to stop a swing and to keep your feet on a roof. Squeezing between two holds becomes a technique of its own (Compression). Gyms start to set the one-handed dyno and the dyno here, so you need latching to hold the catch and cutting loose to control the swing. The run-and-jump appears on problems set in a competition style. Your hands meet the pocket. On rounded holds the thumb starts to help (Using the thumb). By now, momentum is a normal tool, not a last resort.
| Technique | Category |
|---|---|
| Twist lock | Body positioning |
| Inside flag | Body positioning |
| Compression | Body positioning |
| One-handed dyno | Dynamic movement |
| Dyno | Dynamic movement |
| Latching | Dynamic movement |
| Cutting loose and swing control | Dynamic movement |
| Run-and-jump | Dynamic movement |
| Toe hook | Feet and legs |
| Hands and holds | |
| Using the thumb | Hands and holds |
| Roofs | Terrain |
Focus
- Choose static or dynamic. For big moves on overhangs, start with straight arms. Sit your hips back and down, then drive from your feet. Newer climbers tend to lock off too much [151].
- Body tension. When your hands are far above you or out to the side, keep pushing through both toes. If your feet go light, pull on the footholds with your toes.
- Repeat, then reach up. Repeat V4s until they feel smooth. Put real attempts into at least one V5 every session. Lattice counts learning chances, not sends (clean climbs of a problem) [258].
Reading problems at this grade
- Find the crux first, then work backwards. What body position must you be in to start the crux move?
- Find the move where your feet will swing off. Decide how you will catch the swing before you leave the ground.
Look for
- heel-hook holds: a horizontal edge or volume at hip height, out to the side.
- toe-hook features: a hold or volume edge that faces down or sideways at foot level.
Physical side
Lattice’s V1–V4 band adds about 19 kg on a two-arm max hang [254].
Why people stall here
- Muscling through. You can pull hard, so you never learn the position that makes the move easy.
- Never trying V5s. You repeat what you can already climb.
The next section covers both.