Both hands leave the start holds at once and both catch the target, while your feet either stay on or leave the wall [225].
Grade Learn it from V2 on big holds, low on the wall, as your first dyno (this book’s suggestion). It is the easiest dyno to teach [225]. Ordinary problems rarely need it; a deadpoint or a one-handed dyno usually works [220]. It is a competition-style set piece from about V5.
How to do it
Put both hands on two holds with straight arms. Point your toes at the wall [225].
Bend your knees. Arch your back so your hips come to the wall near the higher foot [225].
Press up with your legs and swing around your arms. Bend your arms only when your hips reach the start holds [225].
Keep your shoulders back. Let go as late as you can, about when the holds reach your waist [220, 225].
As your legs straighten, bring your shoulders forward. Catch both holds, one hand leading slightly towards the better one [219, 225].
Catch with your arms slightly bent to check the swing [219].
Figure 77 (a) Sink with straight arms and your toes on the wall. (b) Both hands leave together and catch the pair of holds.
Common mistakes
Going slack in the air. Keep your stomach and shoulders tight [225].
Not planning the miss. A missed double dyno “will almost always result in a fall” [225].
