Reading the WallDynamic movement

Jumping to a foothold

V5+

During or after a dynamic move, you throw a foot out so your toe hooks or stands on a hold or a volume’s edge. That stops the swing or sets up the next move [219, 221].

Grade It is common on competition-style problems from about V5 (judgement), often as the first move [44, 221].

How to do it

  1. Plan the foot before you move. Decide which foot, which hold and whether to hook or stand.
  2. As your hand catches, throw the foot along the line of the swing towards its target.
  3. For a toe hook, pull your toes up towards your shin [90]. Pull the toe into the hold to check the swing [219].
  4. Tense your lower stomach as the toe touches [93].
  5. Wear shoes with rubber on top of the toes. They hold toe hooks better [44].
A climber from behind, stopping a swing with the toes hooked behind a volume, and a close-up of the toes.
Figure 79 (a) The right hand has caught the hold and the body swings right. The left toe hooks the far side of the volume and stops the swing. (b) Close-up from behind: the top of the toes presses on the far side of the volume, and the leg pulls towards the body.

Common mistakes

  • Throwing the foot late, after the swing has started.
Related
Toe hook, Cutting loose and swing control, Latching, Volumes
Watch
How to Dyno || Intermediate Climbing Techniques || ToeHook catch (Bouldering Bobat)
Sources
[44, 90, 93, 219, 221]
Referenced from
Momentum and timing, One-handed dyno, Cutting loose and swing control, Dynamic slab, Progression map, V5 (Font 6C/6C+)