Also called generating momentum, dynamic weight shift, pumping · Dynamic movement
Before a move, you shift your hips across or in and out. Your legs then build speed towards the hold, so your arms don’t have to.
Grade Wide footholds need a small hop to move your hips across [204]. That starts at about V2–V3 (judgement). Timing a single pump before a dyno matters from V4–V5.
How to do it
Pick the push foot, under or beside the target. One coach calls it the motion point [204].
Swing your hips over that foot. Let them dip as the knee bends.
Rise out of the dip towards the hold in one arc. Reach near the top of the arc.
If the footholds are far apart, push off the other foot with a small hop. Your hips then cross faster [204].
Before a dyno, swing once towards the target. Sink to the bottom with straight arms. Go on the next upswing [229].
On steep walls, exaggerate. Get your hips right over the heel. Arch your back so they stay close to the wall [224].
Figure 68 (a) Dip your hips onto the push foot. (b) Rise out of the dip in one arc towards the next hold.
Common mistakes
Bouncing several times. Each extra pump costs energy and adds downward speed that you must then stop [216, 229]. Coaches disagree on pumping at all, so pump once at most [207].
Pulling with your arms during the pump. Keep them straight.
