Reading the WallDynamic movement

Campus move

V5+

You move a hand with no feet on the wall, while your arms and body tension hold you. Each move is a footless dyno [238].

Grade Low-grade gym problems rarely force moves without feet. Steep V5+ problems sometimes leave no usable feet for a move or two (judgement; no coaching source places it).

How to do it

  1. Keep your arms slightly bent. Pull your shoulder blades down [234].
  2. Tuck your knees [207]. Hold your legs still so they don’t swing.
  3. Pull a little while you pop your hips up towards the wall. Don’t crank on one arm.
  4. Let go at the top of that small rise. Catch the next hold with a bent arm [230].
  5. Put your feet back on as soon as a foothold is in reach. Use the swing [93].
A climber hanging from an overhang with no footholds, knees tucked, then popping the hips up to move one hand higher.
Figure 78 (a) Hang with your arms slightly bent and your knees tucked. (b) Pop your hips up a little. The right hand moves on at the top.

Common mistakes

  • Campusing where feet would help. On anything less than very steep, feet save effort.
Related
Cutting loose and swing control, Body tension, Roofs, Latching
Sources
[93, 207, 230, 234, 238, 239]
Referenced from
Cutting loose and swing control, Roofs, Progression map, V5 (Font 6C/6C+), Glossary of climbing jargon